Hish Risk Drivers

Hish Risk Drivers

Insurance companies have a definition of the term "high risk" driver. A "high risk" driver is a category of drivers who do not meet the eligibility requirements established preferred auto insurance companies. Auto accidents, multiple tickets (speeding and/or reckless driving) or serious offenses like DUI on your driving record signify to the auto insurance company that you are a high risk to insure. Additional risk factors include your credit history, lack of continuous auto insurance coverage, and personal profile.

If you have been involved in several accidents or have had multiple speeding tickets within two to three years, these incidents will negatively affect your record even if they were not at fault in the accidents. You can also be labeled a "high risk" driver just by the number of speeding tickets you have received. If you are designated a "high risk" driver, there are several steps you can take.

Get out of the "high risk" category

This seems like common sense, but unless you want to continue paying higher auto insurance premiums, you must work toward getting yourself reclassified. Most insurance companies only consider the last three years of your driving record to determine your status and premium. Avoid congested areas whenever possible, and be sure to slow down in reduced speed zones. You need to be aware of your surroundings and never speed, and you will be on your way to a successful reduction in your rates. It also helps to drive a domestic vehicle. If you are driving a sports car or luxury vehicle, you are paying much more than someone who drives a family sedan or compact hatchback plus adding on your high risk premium. Consider what you drive and how it relates to your auto insurance premiums.

"High risk" auto insurance coverage

Some insurance agents specialize in offering policies to those with active driving records and/or sports car enthusiasts. However, you should expect to pay much premiums to match your "high risk" status. Statistics have demonstrated that insurance companies lose more money insuring people with bad driving records or sports cars for the higher coverage pay outs. Be upfront with your insurance agent about your driving record. The agencies that work with "high risk" drivers know how to find you the best deal for what car insurance is available to you. Also compare as many quotes as you can, each insurance company will view your driving record differently.

State assigned risk

Even if the high risk insurance agents will not write you a policy, every state has some kind of program that helps the"High risk" drivers get insured by entering the states shared pool. Your "High risk" status is "shared" among all the auto insurance companies in this pooled market. If you are forced to buy auto insurance from the shared pool, the premiums are much higher than standard car insurance premiums and it typically covers only liability insurance. You must meet the laws requirement of having liability insurance. If you cannot find an insurance agent who can work with you through the state pooled market, each state has an insurance commission that can provide information.

Hish Risk Drivers

Hish Risk Drivers

Insurance companies have a definition of the term "high risk" driver. A "high risk" driver is a category of drivers who do not meet the eligibility requirements established preferred auto insurance companies. Auto accidents, multiple tickets (speeding and/or reckless driving) or serious offenses like DUI on your driving record signify to the auto insurance company that you are a high risk to insure. Additional risk factors include your credit history, lack of continuous auto insurance coverage, and personal profile.

If you have been involved in several accidents or have had multiple speeding tickets within two to three years, these incidents will negatively affect your record even if they were not at fault in the accidents. You can also be labeled a "high risk" driver just by the number of speeding tickets you have received. If you are designated a "high risk" driver, there are several steps you can take.

Get out of the "high risk" category

This seems like common sense, but unless you want to continue paying higher auto insurance premiums, you must work toward getting yourself reclassified. Most insurance companies only consider the last three years of your driving record to determine your status and premium. Avoid congested areas whenever possible, and be sure to slow down in reduced speed zones. You need to be aware of your surroundings and never speed, and you will be on your way to a successful reduction in your rates. It also helps to drive a domestic vehicle. If you are driving a sports car or luxury vehicle, you are paying much more than someone who drives a family sedan or compact hatchback plus adding on your high risk premium. Consider what you drive and how it relates to your auto insurance premiums.

"High risk" auto insurance coverage

Some insurance agents specialize in offering policies to those with active driving records and/or sports car enthusiasts. However, you should expect to pay much premiums to match your "high risk" status. Statistics have demonstrated that insurance companies lose more money insuring people with bad driving records or sports cars for the higher coverage pay outs. Be upfront with your insurance agent about your driving record. The agencies that work with "high risk" drivers know how to find you the best deal for what car insurance is available to you. Also compare as many quotes as you can, each insurance company will view your driving record differently.

State assigned risk

Even if the high risk insurance agents will not write you a policy, every state has some kind of program that helps the"High risk" drivers get insured by entering the states shared pool. Your "High risk" status is "shared" among all the auto insurance companies in this pooled market. If you are forced to buy auto insurance from the shared pool, the premiums are much higher than standard car insurance premiums and it typically covers only liability insurance. You must meet the laws requirement of having liability insurance. If you cannot find an insurance agent who can work with you through the state pooled market, each state has an insurance commission that can provide information.

Hish Risk Drivers

Hish Risk Drivers

Insurance companies have a definition of the term "high risk" driver. A "high risk" driver is a category of drivers who do not meet the eligibility requirements established preferred auto insurance companies. Auto accidents, multiple tickets (speeding and/or reckless driving) or serious offenses like DUI on your driving record signify to the auto insurance company that you are a high risk to insure. Additional risk factors include your credit history, lack of continuous auto insurance coverage, and personal profile.

If you have been involved in several accidents or have had multiple speeding tickets within two to three years, these incidents will negatively affect your record even if they were not at fault in the accidents. You can also be labeled a "high risk" driver just by the number of speeding tickets you have received. If you are designated a "high risk" driver, there are several steps you can take.

Get out of the "high risk" category

This seems like common sense, but unless you want to continue paying higher auto insurance premiums, you must work toward getting yourself reclassified. Most insurance companies only consider the last three years of your driving record to determine your status and premium. Avoid congested areas whenever possible, and be sure to slow down in reduced speed zones. You need to be aware of your surroundings and never speed, and you will be on your way to a successful reduction in your rates. It also helps to drive a domestic vehicle. If you are driving a sports car or luxury vehicle, you are paying much more than someone who drives a family sedan or compact hatchback plus adding on your high risk premium. Consider what you drive and how it relates to your auto insurance premiums.

"High risk" auto insurance coverage

Some insurance agents specialize in offering policies to those with active driving records and/or sports car enthusiasts. However, you should expect to pay much premiums to match your "high risk" status. Statistics have demonstrated that insurance companies lose more money insuring people with bad driving records or sports cars for the higher coverage pay outs. Be upfront with your insurance agent about your driving record. The agencies that work with "high risk" drivers know how to find you the best deal for what car insurance is available to you. Also compare as many quotes as you can, each insurance company will view your driving record differently.

State assigned risk

Even if the high risk insurance agents will not write you a policy, every state has some kind of program that helps the"High risk" drivers get insured by entering the states shared pool. Your "High risk" status is "shared" among all the auto insurance companies in this pooled market. If you are forced to buy auto insurance from the shared pool, the premiums are much higher than standard car insurance premiums and it typically covers only liability insurance. You must meet the laws requirement of having liability insurance. If you cannot find an insurance agent who can work with you through the state pooled market, each state has an insurance commission that can provide information.

Your 5-minute guide to car insurance

Here's some basic advice, plus 22 tips to help you protect yourself and get the best value for the money you spend on automobile coverage.

Your car insurance rates are based on a few factors you can't readily change -- your sex, age, marital status and where you live -- and many that you can -- your credit scores, what you drive, how well you drive and how much coverage you buy.

Here's how to get the best deal.

First, let's review the basics. Details vary from state to state. (See "Shopping for auto insurance.")

* Liability insurance pays for injuries and property damage caused by a crash if an insurance adjuster determines you were at fault. It does not cover your injuries or those of other people on your policy, or damage to your vehicle. State minimum requirements provide inadequate protection. Buy no less than $100,000 per person, $300,000 per accident and $50,000 for property damage, or no less than $300,000 if your policy has a single limit. You are personally liable for claims that exceed your coverage, so buy even more if you can, and consider an umbrella policy.

* Uninsured/underinsured motorist protection covers injuries to the occupants of your car -- and property damage in some states -- if the other driver has no insurance or too little.

* Collision insurance pays for damage to your vehicle in an accident. If your car is totaled, you'll get what the insurer considers the pre-crash market value of your car, minus your deductible. To get a general idea of what that may be, check the Kelley Blue Book private-party price or visit the Web site of the National Automobile Dealers Association. You can pay extra for replacement-cost coverage for newer cars.

* Comprehensive insurance covers theft of your vehicle and noncollision damage to your car, as well as animal collisions. You may be eligible for lower rates if your vehicle has anti-theft and tracking devices.

* Medical or personal-injury protection provides coverage for you and your passengers, regardless of fault. You may not need this insurance if you have good health insurance.

* Twelve states have no-fault insurance, which generally covers the insured person's injuries and property damage no matter who is at fault.

* Consider gap insurance if you owe more on your car than it's worth.

Reduce your rates
The company you select and the coverage you buy can greatly reduce your rates.

* Shop around. Check rates online at InsWeb.com, call companies, and consult an agent through the Independent Insurance Agents & Brokers of America. Rates vary greatly depending on a company's operating expenses, history of claims and formulas for setting premiums. Check a company's financial status and consumer record. The last thing you need is to go cheap and then find it's all but impossible to file a claim.

* Increase your deductibles on comprehensive and collision coverage to an amount you can cover out of pocket.

* Consider dropping both if you own your vehicle outright and the combined annual cost for that coverage is more than 10% of what you would get if you car were totaled. (See "Dump the insurance on your clunker.")

* Ask your insurer about all available special discounts.

* If you're switching insurance companies, do it in writing. Your credit scores will suffer if you're canceled for nonpayment.

Control yourself
Your behavior on and off the road has a bearing on your rates.

* Pay all bills on time. Your premiums are based in part on your credit scores or an insurance risk score based on your credit reports. (See "The new math of car insurance.") TransUnion's TrueCredit will provide your auto insurance risk score for $9.95.

* Drive defensively, and avoid distractions such as text messaging or talking on a cell phone. One speeding ticket may not raise your rates, but an accident you caused probably would -- generally by 40% of the company's base rate.

* Don't drink and drive. (See "DUI: The $10,000 ride home.")

* Don't lend out your car. If your friend wrecks it, your rates will go up. If your uninsured friend wrecks your car, you'll be liable for claims exceeding your policy.

The type of vehicle you drive affects your rates.

* Check the cost of insuring that sports car before you buy it. You'll pay higher premiums for a vehicle with higher collision-damage costs or that's attractive to thieves. Use MSN Money's comparison tool. And no, it doesn't cost more to insure a red car.

* High-tech items are more expensive to replace after a crash. (See "High-tech cars mean high-priced repairs.")

The deal on discounts
Factors such as age, how much you drive, where you live and, sometimes, what you do for a living affect insurance premiums. You can take some steps to get a better rate.

* If you get married, you'll get a discount and benefit from combining policies. (See "Paying too much for car insurance?")

* People 55 and older get a discount for taking a driving class.

* Adding your newly licensed teen to your policy will increase your premiums 50% to 200%. One way to reduce costs: Buy a beater and list your child as the driver. Teen drivers can get discounts for drivers ed courses or good grades. (See "Cut the cost of insuring your teen driver.")

* You may get a discount if your child attends college away from home.

If you wreck your car
If you've been in a collision, tell your insurance company for your own protection, even if injuries are not readily apparent. Informing the company doesn't mean you're filing a claim.

* If you disagree with the value assigned to your totaled vehicle, provide quotes from local dealers and proof that your vehicle was well-maintained. (See "12 secrets your car insurer won't tell you.") Still unsatisfied? Your options are mediation, arbitration and, finally, a lawsuit.

* Twenty-eight states require insurance companies to pay the sales tax on a replacement vehicle, based on the settlement value of your totaled car. Request it, as well as registration and title fees, wherever you live.

* In 14 states you can get payment for the "diminished value" of your damaged car.

* If the driver at fault in a crash is uninsured, consider "stacking" or collecting on all of your policies that have uninsured/underinsured motorist coverage to fully cover the damage, unless state law prohibits it.

* Body shops may be tempted to cut corners to meet insurance companies' pricing requirements. Check Assured Performance Collision Care for qualified repair shops. (See "7 things auto-body shops won't tell you.")

* If you cause an accident, does your policy require you to pay the difference between generic and original-equipment manufacturer parts? If someone else caused the accident, request original-equipment parts for your repairs.

source

Your 5-minute guide to car insurance

Here's some basic advice, plus 22 tips to help you protect yourself and get the best value for the money you spend on automobile coverage.

Your car insurance rates are based on a few factors you can't readily change -- your sex, age, marital status and where you live -- and many that you can -- your credit scores, what you drive, how well you drive and how much coverage you buy.

Here's how to get the best deal.

First, let's review the basics. Details vary from state to state. (See "Shopping for auto insurance.")

* Liability insurance pays for injuries and property damage caused by a crash if an insurance adjuster determines you were at fault. It does not cover your injuries or those of other people on your policy, or damage to your vehicle. State minimum requirements provide inadequate protection. Buy no less than $100,000 per person, $300,000 per accident and $50,000 for property damage, or no less than $300,000 if your policy has a single limit. You are personally liable for claims that exceed your coverage, so buy even more if you can, and consider an umbrella policy.

* Uninsured/underinsured motorist protection covers injuries to the occupants of your car -- and property damage in some states -- if the other driver has no insurance or too little.

* Collision insurance pays for damage to your vehicle in an accident. If your car is totaled, you'll get what the insurer considers the pre-crash market value of your car, minus your deductible. To get a general idea of what that may be, check the Kelley Blue Book private-party price or visit the Web site of the National Automobile Dealers Association. You can pay extra for replacement-cost coverage for newer cars.

* Comprehensive insurance covers theft of your vehicle and noncollision damage to your car, as well as animal collisions. You may be eligible for lower rates if your vehicle has anti-theft and tracking devices.

* Medical or personal-injury protection provides coverage for you and your passengers, regardless of fault. You may not need this insurance if you have good health insurance.

* Twelve states have no-fault insurance, which generally covers the insured person's injuries and property damage no matter who is at fault.

* Consider gap insurance if you owe more on your car than it's worth.

Reduce your rates
The company you select and the coverage you buy can greatly reduce your rates.

* Shop around. Check rates online at InsWeb.com, call companies, and consult an agent through the Independent Insurance Agents & Brokers of America. Rates vary greatly depending on a company's operating expenses, history of claims and formulas for setting premiums. Check a company's financial status and consumer record. The last thing you need is to go cheap and then find it's all but impossible to file a claim.

* Increase your deductibles on comprehensive and collision coverage to an amount you can cover out of pocket.

* Consider dropping both if you own your vehicle outright and the combined annual cost for that coverage is more than 10% of what you would get if you car were totaled. (See "Dump the insurance on your clunker.")

* Ask your insurer about all available special discounts.

* If you're switching insurance companies, do it in writing. Your credit scores will suffer if you're canceled for nonpayment.

Control yourself
Your behavior on and off the road has a bearing on your rates.

* Pay all bills on time. Your premiums are based in part on your credit scores or an insurance risk score based on your credit reports. (See "The new math of car insurance.") TransUnion's TrueCredit will provide your auto insurance risk score for $9.95.

* Drive defensively, and avoid distractions such as text messaging or talking on a cell phone. One speeding ticket may not raise your rates, but an accident you caused probably would -- generally by 40% of the company's base rate.

* Don't drink and drive. (See "DUI: The $10,000 ride home.")

* Don't lend out your car. If your friend wrecks it, your rates will go up. If your uninsured friend wrecks your car, you'll be liable for claims exceeding your policy.

The type of vehicle you drive affects your rates.

* Check the cost of insuring that sports car before you buy it. You'll pay higher premiums for a vehicle with higher collision-damage costs or that's attractive to thieves. Use MSN Money's comparison tool. And no, it doesn't cost more to insure a red car.

* High-tech items are more expensive to replace after a crash. (See "High-tech cars mean high-priced repairs.")

The deal on discounts
Factors such as age, how much you drive, where you live and, sometimes, what you do for a living affect insurance premiums. You can take some steps to get a better rate.

* If you get married, you'll get a discount and benefit from combining policies. (See "Paying too much for car insurance?")

* People 55 and older get a discount for taking a driving class.

* Adding your newly licensed teen to your policy will increase your premiums 50% to 200%. One way to reduce costs: Buy a beater and list your child as the driver. Teen drivers can get discounts for drivers ed courses or good grades. (See "Cut the cost of insuring your teen driver.")

* You may get a discount if your child attends college away from home.

If you wreck your car
If you've been in a collision, tell your insurance company for your own protection, even if injuries are not readily apparent. Informing the company doesn't mean you're filing a claim.

* If you disagree with the value assigned to your totaled vehicle, provide quotes from local dealers and proof that your vehicle was well-maintained. (See "12 secrets your car insurer won't tell you.") Still unsatisfied? Your options are mediation, arbitration and, finally, a lawsuit.

* Twenty-eight states require insurance companies to pay the sales tax on a replacement vehicle, based on the settlement value of your totaled car. Request it, as well as registration and title fees, wherever you live.

* In 14 states you can get payment for the "diminished value" of your damaged car.

* If the driver at fault in a crash is uninsured, consider "stacking" or collecting on all of your policies that have uninsured/underinsured motorist coverage to fully cover the damage, unless state law prohibits it.

* Body shops may be tempted to cut corners to meet insurance companies' pricing requirements. Check Assured Performance Collision Care for qualified repair shops. (See "7 things auto-body shops won't tell you.")

* If you cause an accident, does your policy require you to pay the difference between generic and original-equipment manufacturer parts? If someone else caused the accident, request original-equipment parts for your repairs.

source

Your 5-minute guide to car insurance

Here's some basic advice, plus 22 tips to help you protect yourself and get the best value for the money you spend on automobile coverage.

Your car insurance rates are based on a few factors you can't readily change -- your sex, age, marital status and where you live -- and many that you can -- your credit scores, what you drive, how well you drive and how much coverage you buy.

Here's how to get the best deal.

First, let's review the basics. Details vary from state to state. (See "Shopping for auto insurance.")

* Liability insurance pays for injuries and property damage caused by a crash if an insurance adjuster determines you were at fault. It does not cover your injuries or those of other people on your policy, or damage to your vehicle. State minimum requirements provide inadequate protection. Buy no less than $100,000 per person, $300,000 per accident and $50,000 for property damage, or no less than $300,000 if your policy has a single limit. You are personally liable for claims that exceed your coverage, so buy even more if you can, and consider an umbrella policy.

* Uninsured/underinsured motorist protection covers injuries to the occupants of your car -- and property damage in some states -- if the other driver has no insurance or too little.

* Collision insurance pays for damage to your vehicle in an accident. If your car is totaled, you'll get what the insurer considers the pre-crash market value of your car, minus your deductible. To get a general idea of what that may be, check the Kelley Blue Book private-party price or visit the Web site of the National Automobile Dealers Association. You can pay extra for replacement-cost coverage for newer cars.

* Comprehensive insurance covers theft of your vehicle and noncollision damage to your car, as well as animal collisions. You may be eligible for lower rates if your vehicle has anti-theft and tracking devices.

* Medical or personal-injury protection provides coverage for you and your passengers, regardless of fault. You may not need this insurance if you have good health insurance.

* Twelve states have no-fault insurance, which generally covers the insured person's injuries and property damage no matter who is at fault.

* Consider gap insurance if you owe more on your car than it's worth.

Reduce your rates
The company you select and the coverage you buy can greatly reduce your rates.

* Shop around. Check rates online at InsWeb.com, call companies, and consult an agent through the Independent Insurance Agents & Brokers of America. Rates vary greatly depending on a company's operating expenses, history of claims and formulas for setting premiums. Check a company's financial status and consumer record. The last thing you need is to go cheap and then find it's all but impossible to file a claim.

* Increase your deductibles on comprehensive and collision coverage to an amount you can cover out of pocket.

* Consider dropping both if you own your vehicle outright and the combined annual cost for that coverage is more than 10% of what you would get if you car were totaled. (See "Dump the insurance on your clunker.")

* Ask your insurer about all available special discounts.

* If you're switching insurance companies, do it in writing. Your credit scores will suffer if you're canceled for nonpayment.

Control yourself
Your behavior on and off the road has a bearing on your rates.

* Pay all bills on time. Your premiums are based in part on your credit scores or an insurance risk score based on your credit reports. (See "The new math of car insurance.") TransUnion's TrueCredit will provide your auto insurance risk score for $9.95.

* Drive defensively, and avoid distractions such as text messaging or talking on a cell phone. One speeding ticket may not raise your rates, but an accident you caused probably would -- generally by 40% of the company's base rate.

* Don't drink and drive. (See "DUI: The $10,000 ride home.")

* Don't lend out your car. If your friend wrecks it, your rates will go up. If your uninsured friend wrecks your car, you'll be liable for claims exceeding your policy.

The type of vehicle you drive affects your rates.

* Check the cost of insuring that sports car before you buy it. You'll pay higher premiums for a vehicle with higher collision-damage costs or that's attractive to thieves. Use MSN Money's comparison tool. And no, it doesn't cost more to insure a red car.

* High-tech items are more expensive to replace after a crash. (See "High-tech cars mean high-priced repairs.")

The deal on discounts
Factors such as age, how much you drive, where you live and, sometimes, what you do for a living affect insurance premiums. You can take some steps to get a better rate.

* If you get married, you'll get a discount and benefit from combining policies. (See "Paying too much for car insurance?")

* People 55 and older get a discount for taking a driving class.

* Adding your newly licensed teen to your policy will increase your premiums 50% to 200%. One way to reduce costs: Buy a beater and list your child as the driver. Teen drivers can get discounts for drivers ed courses or good grades. (See "Cut the cost of insuring your teen driver.")

* You may get a discount if your child attends college away from home.

If you wreck your car
If you've been in a collision, tell your insurance company for your own protection, even if injuries are not readily apparent. Informing the company doesn't mean you're filing a claim.

* If you disagree with the value assigned to your totaled vehicle, provide quotes from local dealers and proof that your vehicle was well-maintained. (See "12 secrets your car insurer won't tell you.") Still unsatisfied? Your options are mediation, arbitration and, finally, a lawsuit.

* Twenty-eight states require insurance companies to pay the sales tax on a replacement vehicle, based on the settlement value of your totaled car. Request it, as well as registration and title fees, wherever you live.

* In 14 states you can get payment for the "diminished value" of your damaged car.

* If the driver at fault in a crash is uninsured, consider "stacking" or collecting on all of your policies that have uninsured/underinsured motorist coverage to fully cover the damage, unless state law prohibits it.

* Body shops may be tempted to cut corners to meet insurance companies' pricing requirements. Check Assured Performance Collision Care for qualified repair shops. (See "7 things auto-body shops won't tell you.")

* If you cause an accident, does your policy require you to pay the difference between generic and original-equipment manufacturer parts? If someone else caused the accident, request original-equipment parts for your repairs.

source

Toyota MR2 cum Ferrari 360 Spyder

Well crafted conversion from the 2 seater Toyota MR2 and Ferrari 360 Spyder . Look for yourself the final touch of the conversion.







See for yourself which one is MR2 and which one is Ferrari 360 Spider

Toyota MR2 cum Ferrari 360 Spyder

Well crafted conversion from the 2 seater Toyota MR2 and Ferrari 360 Spyder . Look for yourself the final touch of the conversion.







See for yourself which one is MR2 and which one is Ferrari 360 Spider

Toyota MR2 cum Ferrari 360 Spyder

Well crafted conversion from the 2 seater Toyota MR2 and Ferrari 360 Spyder . Look for yourself the final touch of the conversion.







See for yourself which one is MR2 and which one is Ferrari 360 Spider

5 ways to get auto insurance discounts

Some companies will cut your bill if you're an engineer or a teacher. Multi-vehicle and Web discounts are available, too, if you shop a little.

just when you thought you'd taken advantage of every discount and shrunk your auto insurance premium to its tiniest, auto insurers are offering more ways to make your bill smaller, and all you have to do is be yourself.

Almost every insurance company gives you a discount if you've had no accidents or tickets in the last three to five years, or if you buy a homeowners or renters insurance policy with the same company (multiline discount), insure more than one car on your auto insurance policy (multivehicle discount), or own a car that is equipped with air bags. But some companies will also reward you for your profession, your age, and using the Internet.

That college degree is worth something

21st Century Group has found that drivers with degrees in engineering are lower risks than other drivers. If you have a bachelor's degree in any number of engineering or science-related fields — biochemistry, mathematics, or mechanical engineering, for example — you can get a discount on your auto insurance premium if you buy from them.

21st Century sells auto insurance in Arizona, California, Nevada, Oregon, and Washington, and offers the "engineering and scientist" discount in all of those states. If you're a scientist or an engineer with a good driving record, you can save between 10 and 30 percent on the company's base rate, according to Ric Hill, vice president of corporate relations.

A base rate is the average amount of claims paid plus the insurance company's claims-processing fee. For example, if the company's base rate is $400, you could save between $40 and $120.

"Our company's founder saw that educators, scientists, and engineers have lots of characteristics that seem to show that they're the best drivers," says Hill. "Engineers, for example, being accustomed to dealing with fine details, are somewhat meticulous, which means they take good care of their automobiles." 21st Century found that the same holds true for teachers and other scientists.

Teachers deserve a break

Horace Mann Insurance Co. (which sells auto insurance in every state except Hawaii and New Jersey) offers discounts to teachers who belong to state education associations or the National Education Association (NEA). Horace Mann's discounts start at around 8 percent, and are based on the assumptions the company has about teachers: They have a stable occupation, stable employment, and they understand they are under scrutiny by the community.

The discounts are available through Horace Mann or one of its two subsidiaries — Allegiance Insurance Co. or Teachers Insurance Co. In addition to Hawaii, New Jersey, and New York, the discounts are not available in Georgia, Mississippi, Texas, and Washington D.C.

The discount program for teachers who are state association or NEA members started about 15 years ago. Although the auto insurance discounts aren't enough to cover annual association dues, Horace Mann estimates that the average household (two cars) and the average insurance discount will pay for about 50 percent of an association's average dues.

21st Century also offers teachers a break on car insurance premiums, but only if you're certified by the State of California Commission on Teacher Credentialing, or if you are a full-time college or university professor. Savings for this program range from 10 percent to 30 percent on the company's base rate.

Save all you can save in the Army

GEICO offers a 2 percent to 15 percent discount to active and retired members of the military. The military discount is available in all states except Georgia, Indiana, Maine, Massachusetts, Michigan, Mississippi, New Jersey, New Mexico, Tennessee, and Texas. GEICO, which stands for, Government Employees Insurance COrporation, has always taken pride in serving U.S. military personnel and their families.

Another benefit of buying your auto insurance with GEICO if you're in the military is your ability to drop all coverages but comprehensive if you're shipped overseas. "Most armed service personnel will put their vehicles in storage and we allow them to drop their liability and other coverages while they're out of the country," says Richard Kidd, a retired Sgt. Mjr. of the Army and assistant vice president for military services at GEICO. Additionally, if Uncle Sam sends you to a country in which the government offers hostile-fire pay, GEICO will knock 25 percent off your comprehensive bill while your car is in storage.

Drive toward the discounts in your golden years

Remember when a nickel was worth a dime? If so, you're probably eligible for some deep discounts on your auto insurance. The Hartford's AARP Auto Insurance Program offers AARP members the chance to chop their auto insurance bills by as much as 45 percent.

The AARP program offers drivers a 20 to 25 percent (up to $300 per year) discount for insuring multiple cars on one policy, a 10 percent discount for holding both a homeowners and auto insurance policy with The Hartford, and 5 percent savings for staying with the company for more than five years and not having any violations on your driving record.

The Hartford also guarantees that drivers who buy auto insurance through the AARP program will never have their policies canceled except for nonpayment of premium, DUI conviction, or loss of license.

Have Internet, can save

Eligible drivers can save up to 10% on certain MetLife Auto policy coverages when they successfully complete courses, such as one offered by the National Safety Council (NSC).

As a MetLife Auto & Home customer, you can purchase the NSC Driver Safety Course Kit, which includes a 54-minute training video or CD-ROM, a workbook, and an open-book test answer sheet, plus processing. Or, you can take the entire course and exam on the Internet for the same total cost, about $34.95, without ever leaving home. These VHS, CD-ROM and Internet home study Driver Safety Courses are adapted from NSC’s Defensive Driving Courses, arguably the world’s standard of excellence in driver improvement.

Other eligible drivers in your household, on your MetLife Auto policy, can also earn the discount by ordering additional certification workbooks and by successfully completing the course.

source

5 ways to get auto insurance discounts

Some companies will cut your bill if you're an engineer or a teacher. Multi-vehicle and Web discounts are available, too, if you shop a little.

just when you thought you'd taken advantage of every discount and shrunk your auto insurance premium to its tiniest, auto insurers are offering more ways to make your bill smaller, and all you have to do is be yourself.

Almost every insurance company gives you a discount if you've had no accidents or tickets in the last three to five years, or if you buy a homeowners or renters insurance policy with the same company (multiline discount), insure more than one car on your auto insurance policy (multivehicle discount), or own a car that is equipped with air bags. But some companies will also reward you for your profession, your age, and using the Internet.

That college degree is worth something

21st Century Group has found that drivers with degrees in engineering are lower risks than other drivers. If you have a bachelor's degree in any number of engineering or science-related fields — biochemistry, mathematics, or mechanical engineering, for example — you can get a discount on your auto insurance premium if you buy from them.

21st Century sells auto insurance in Arizona, California, Nevada, Oregon, and Washington, and offers the "engineering and scientist" discount in all of those states. If you're a scientist or an engineer with a good driving record, you can save between 10 and 30 percent on the company's base rate, according to Ric Hill, vice president of corporate relations.

A base rate is the average amount of claims paid plus the insurance company's claims-processing fee. For example, if the company's base rate is $400, you could save between $40 and $120.

"Our company's founder saw that educators, scientists, and engineers have lots of characteristics that seem to show that they're the best drivers," says Hill. "Engineers, for example, being accustomed to dealing with fine details, are somewhat meticulous, which means they take good care of their automobiles." 21st Century found that the same holds true for teachers and other scientists.

Teachers deserve a break

Horace Mann Insurance Co. (which sells auto insurance in every state except Hawaii and New Jersey) offers discounts to teachers who belong to state education associations or the National Education Association (NEA). Horace Mann's discounts start at around 8 percent, and are based on the assumptions the company has about teachers: They have a stable occupation, stable employment, and they understand they are under scrutiny by the community.

The discounts are available through Horace Mann or one of its two subsidiaries — Allegiance Insurance Co. or Teachers Insurance Co. In addition to Hawaii, New Jersey, and New York, the discounts are not available in Georgia, Mississippi, Texas, and Washington D.C.

The discount program for teachers who are state association or NEA members started about 15 years ago. Although the auto insurance discounts aren't enough to cover annual association dues, Horace Mann estimates that the average household (two cars) and the average insurance discount will pay for about 50 percent of an association's average dues.

21st Century also offers teachers a break on car insurance premiums, but only if you're certified by the State of California Commission on Teacher Credentialing, or if you are a full-time college or university professor. Savings for this program range from 10 percent to 30 percent on the company's base rate.

Save all you can save in the Army

GEICO offers a 2 percent to 15 percent discount to active and retired members of the military. The military discount is available in all states except Georgia, Indiana, Maine, Massachusetts, Michigan, Mississippi, New Jersey, New Mexico, Tennessee, and Texas. GEICO, which stands for, Government Employees Insurance COrporation, has always taken pride in serving U.S. military personnel and their families.

Another benefit of buying your auto insurance with GEICO if you're in the military is your ability to drop all coverages but comprehensive if you're shipped overseas. "Most armed service personnel will put their vehicles in storage and we allow them to drop their liability and other coverages while they're out of the country," says Richard Kidd, a retired Sgt. Mjr. of the Army and assistant vice president for military services at GEICO. Additionally, if Uncle Sam sends you to a country in which the government offers hostile-fire pay, GEICO will knock 25 percent off your comprehensive bill while your car is in storage.

Drive toward the discounts in your golden years

Remember when a nickel was worth a dime? If so, you're probably eligible for some deep discounts on your auto insurance. The Hartford's AARP Auto Insurance Program offers AARP members the chance to chop their auto insurance bills by as much as 45 percent.

The AARP program offers drivers a 20 to 25 percent (up to $300 per year) discount for insuring multiple cars on one policy, a 10 percent discount for holding both a homeowners and auto insurance policy with The Hartford, and 5 percent savings for staying with the company for more than five years and not having any violations on your driving record.

The Hartford also guarantees that drivers who buy auto insurance through the AARP program will never have their policies canceled except for nonpayment of premium, DUI conviction, or loss of license.

Have Internet, can save

Eligible drivers can save up to 10% on certain MetLife Auto policy coverages when they successfully complete courses, such as one offered by the National Safety Council (NSC).

As a MetLife Auto & Home customer, you can purchase the NSC Driver Safety Course Kit, which includes a 54-minute training video or CD-ROM, a workbook, and an open-book test answer sheet, plus processing. Or, you can take the entire course and exam on the Internet for the same total cost, about $34.95, without ever leaving home. These VHS, CD-ROM and Internet home study Driver Safety Courses are adapted from NSC’s Defensive Driving Courses, arguably the world’s standard of excellence in driver improvement.

Other eligible drivers in your household, on your MetLife Auto policy, can also earn the discount by ordering additional certification workbooks and by successfully completing the course.

source

5 ways to get auto insurance discounts

Some companies will cut your bill if you're an engineer or a teacher. Multi-vehicle and Web discounts are available, too, if you shop a little.

just when you thought you'd taken advantage of every discount and shrunk your auto insurance premium to its tiniest, auto insurers are offering more ways to make your bill smaller, and all you have to do is be yourself.

Almost every insurance company gives you a discount if you've had no accidents or tickets in the last three to five years, or if you buy a homeowners or renters insurance policy with the same company (multiline discount), insure more than one car on your auto insurance policy (multivehicle discount), or own a car that is equipped with air bags. But some companies will also reward you for your profession, your age, and using the Internet.

That college degree is worth something

21st Century Group has found that drivers with degrees in engineering are lower risks than other drivers. If you have a bachelor's degree in any number of engineering or science-related fields — biochemistry, mathematics, or mechanical engineering, for example — you can get a discount on your auto insurance premium if you buy from them.

21st Century sells auto insurance in Arizona, California, Nevada, Oregon, and Washington, and offers the "engineering and scientist" discount in all of those states. If you're a scientist or an engineer with a good driving record, you can save between 10 and 30 percent on the company's base rate, according to Ric Hill, vice president of corporate relations.

A base rate is the average amount of claims paid plus the insurance company's claims-processing fee. For example, if the company's base rate is $400, you could save between $40 and $120.

"Our company's founder saw that educators, scientists, and engineers have lots of characteristics that seem to show that they're the best drivers," says Hill. "Engineers, for example, being accustomed to dealing with fine details, are somewhat meticulous, which means they take good care of their automobiles." 21st Century found that the same holds true for teachers and other scientists.

Teachers deserve a break

Horace Mann Insurance Co. (which sells auto insurance in every state except Hawaii and New Jersey) offers discounts to teachers who belong to state education associations or the National Education Association (NEA). Horace Mann's discounts start at around 8 percent, and are based on the assumptions the company has about teachers: They have a stable occupation, stable employment, and they understand they are under scrutiny by the community.

The discounts are available through Horace Mann or one of its two subsidiaries — Allegiance Insurance Co. or Teachers Insurance Co. In addition to Hawaii, New Jersey, and New York, the discounts are not available in Georgia, Mississippi, Texas, and Washington D.C.

The discount program for teachers who are state association or NEA members started about 15 years ago. Although the auto insurance discounts aren't enough to cover annual association dues, Horace Mann estimates that the average household (two cars) and the average insurance discount will pay for about 50 percent of an association's average dues.

21st Century also offers teachers a break on car insurance premiums, but only if you're certified by the State of California Commission on Teacher Credentialing, or if you are a full-time college or university professor. Savings for this program range from 10 percent to 30 percent on the company's base rate.

Save all you can save in the Army

GEICO offers a 2 percent to 15 percent discount to active and retired members of the military. The military discount is available in all states except Georgia, Indiana, Maine, Massachusetts, Michigan, Mississippi, New Jersey, New Mexico, Tennessee, and Texas. GEICO, which stands for, Government Employees Insurance COrporation, has always taken pride in serving U.S. military personnel and their families.

Another benefit of buying your auto insurance with GEICO if you're in the military is your ability to drop all coverages but comprehensive if you're shipped overseas. "Most armed service personnel will put their vehicles in storage and we allow them to drop their liability and other coverages while they're out of the country," says Richard Kidd, a retired Sgt. Mjr. of the Army and assistant vice president for military services at GEICO. Additionally, if Uncle Sam sends you to a country in which the government offers hostile-fire pay, GEICO will knock 25 percent off your comprehensive bill while your car is in storage.

Drive toward the discounts in your golden years

Remember when a nickel was worth a dime? If so, you're probably eligible for some deep discounts on your auto insurance. The Hartford's AARP Auto Insurance Program offers AARP members the chance to chop their auto insurance bills by as much as 45 percent.

The AARP program offers drivers a 20 to 25 percent (up to $300 per year) discount for insuring multiple cars on one policy, a 10 percent discount for holding both a homeowners and auto insurance policy with The Hartford, and 5 percent savings for staying with the company for more than five years and not having any violations on your driving record.

The Hartford also guarantees that drivers who buy auto insurance through the AARP program will never have their policies canceled except for nonpayment of premium, DUI conviction, or loss of license.

Have Internet, can save

Eligible drivers can save up to 10% on certain MetLife Auto policy coverages when they successfully complete courses, such as one offered by the National Safety Council (NSC).

As a MetLife Auto & Home customer, you can purchase the NSC Driver Safety Course Kit, which includes a 54-minute training video or CD-ROM, a workbook, and an open-book test answer sheet, plus processing. Or, you can take the entire course and exam on the Internet for the same total cost, about $34.95, without ever leaving home. These VHS, CD-ROM and Internet home study Driver Safety Courses are adapted from NSC’s Defensive Driving Courses, arguably the world’s standard of excellence in driver improvement.

Other eligible drivers in your household, on your MetLife Auto policy, can also earn the discount by ordering additional certification workbooks and by successfully completing the course.

source

auto insurance quote part 1: How much money do you get if your car is totaled?

Answer 1:
Never what you owe or what it will cost you to replace it. So the answer to the problem is GAP insurance! Small amount to pay for peace of mind that pays you the difference between loan/cost and adjusters appraisals, (which start at the bottom, wholesale)The haggling is what the adjuster is paid to do, not to be fair, but to save the insurance company the most they can, they are not your pals! Wife rear ended, she's ok totalled car retail $20,000, offered $15,500


Answer 2:
You should get ACV (actual cash value)

Do your homework before settling with the adjuster. Check newspaper ads, dealers etc., to see what a car like yours, similar condition and like mileage is worth in your area. Have 3 or 4 bona-fide local examples to take with you and show the adjuster.

A new car should not be a problem unless you have over-financed.

Some folks borrow more than the vehicle is worth to pay off an old one and you are what is termed to be "upside-down", meaning you owe more on the vehicle than its worth. If this is your situation and the car is totalled, you will be paid off the value of the vehicle but not what you over-financed.


Answer 3:
Having been in this situation in WVa, the insurance people have a standrd which is used. Usually it involves the the NADA book value. The low value - a certain amount if the the engine milege is 100,000 or more = settlement. My experiance was not good as I did not receive enough to pay the vehicle loan principle, even though the loan was for less that the purchase price.



Answer 4:
Ok. So I have just been told by the Claims Agent that my car it totaled. In my case to repair the damage would cost $3500. The value of my vehicle was only $4200. If it cost more than 70% of the total car value to fix, it is considered totaled.

So now I have two things to do. 1)Check the value of my car for myself. 2) Locate what it would cost to replace my exact car in the market today.

For the first item I will use these three websites and take the best results to use as a basis for determining what I will expect to get paid from my Insurance Agency. www.kbb.com, www.edmunds.com, and www.nada.com. Be sure to include your milage and all your vehicle features before caculating a price with these sites. Also, always use the RETAIL price that they generate because that is what you will have to pay to replace your car in the open market.

The second item takes a little more leg work. But thankfully for the internet this process is now a lot easier. Use the website www.autotrader.com. This will allow you to locate your specific car to see what people are actually selling it for. Most often is will be selling for more money than what your first step revealed.

Note: If you are having trouble locating a vehicle within 200 miles of where you live, then try and find a similar replacement vehicle you are interested and use that as your leverage.

I have been told that by law, your insurance company is only require to pay out the wholesale price of the vehicle. This is usually at least half of what the blue book value is. So don't get your insurance company mad at you, but also stick to your guns when trying to get more money to replace or fix your vehicle!

auto insurance quote part 1: How much money do you get if your car is totaled?

Answer 1:
Never what you owe or what it will cost you to replace it. So the answer to the problem is GAP insurance! Small amount to pay for peace of mind that pays you the difference between loan/cost and adjusters appraisals, (which start at the bottom, wholesale)The haggling is what the adjuster is paid to do, not to be fair, but to save the insurance company the most they can, they are not your pals! Wife rear ended, she's ok totalled car retail $20,000, offered $15,500


Answer 2:
You should get ACV (actual cash value)

Do your homework before settling with the adjuster. Check newspaper ads, dealers etc., to see what a car like yours, similar condition and like mileage is worth in your area. Have 3 or 4 bona-fide local examples to take with you and show the adjuster.

A new car should not be a problem unless you have over-financed.

Some folks borrow more than the vehicle is worth to pay off an old one and you are what is termed to be "upside-down", meaning you owe more on the vehicle than its worth. If this is your situation and the car is totalled, you will be paid off the value of the vehicle but not what you over-financed.


Answer 3:
Having been in this situation in WVa, the insurance people have a standrd which is used. Usually it involves the the NADA book value. The low value - a certain amount if the the engine milege is 100,000 or more = settlement. My experiance was not good as I did not receive enough to pay the vehicle loan principle, even though the loan was for less that the purchase price.



Answer 4:
Ok. So I have just been told by the Claims Agent that my car it totaled. In my case to repair the damage would cost $3500. The value of my vehicle was only $4200. If it cost more than 70% of the total car value to fix, it is considered totaled.

So now I have two things to do. 1)Check the value of my car for myself. 2) Locate what it would cost to replace my exact car in the market today.

For the first item I will use these three websites and take the best results to use as a basis for determining what I will expect to get paid from my Insurance Agency. www.kbb.com, www.edmunds.com, and www.nada.com. Be sure to include your milage and all your vehicle features before caculating a price with these sites. Also, always use the RETAIL price that they generate because that is what you will have to pay to replace your car in the open market.

The second item takes a little more leg work. But thankfully for the internet this process is now a lot easier. Use the website www.autotrader.com. This will allow you to locate your specific car to see what people are actually selling it for. Most often is will be selling for more money than what your first step revealed.

Note: If you are having trouble locating a vehicle within 200 miles of where you live, then try and find a similar replacement vehicle you are interested and use that as your leverage.

I have been told that by law, your insurance company is only require to pay out the wholesale price of the vehicle. This is usually at least half of what the blue book value is. So don't get your insurance company mad at you, but also stick to your guns when trying to get more money to replace or fix your vehicle!

auto insurance quote part 1: How much money do you get if your car is totaled?

Answer 1:
Never what you owe or what it will cost you to replace it. So the answer to the problem is GAP insurance! Small amount to pay for peace of mind that pays you the difference between loan/cost and adjusters appraisals, (which start at the bottom, wholesale)The haggling is what the adjuster is paid to do, not to be fair, but to save the insurance company the most they can, they are not your pals! Wife rear ended, she's ok totalled car retail $20,000, offered $15,500


Answer 2:
You should get ACV (actual cash value)

Do your homework before settling with the adjuster. Check newspaper ads, dealers etc., to see what a car like yours, similar condition and like mileage is worth in your area. Have 3 or 4 bona-fide local examples to take with you and show the adjuster.

A new car should not be a problem unless you have over-financed.

Some folks borrow more than the vehicle is worth to pay off an old one and you are what is termed to be "upside-down", meaning you owe more on the vehicle than its worth. If this is your situation and the car is totalled, you will be paid off the value of the vehicle but not what you over-financed.


Answer 3:
Having been in this situation in WVa, the insurance people have a standrd which is used. Usually it involves the the NADA book value. The low value - a certain amount if the the engine milege is 100,000 or more = settlement. My experiance was not good as I did not receive enough to pay the vehicle loan principle, even though the loan was for less that the purchase price.



Answer 4:
Ok. So I have just been told by the Claims Agent that my car it totaled. In my case to repair the damage would cost $3500. The value of my vehicle was only $4200. If it cost more than 70% of the total car value to fix, it is considered totaled.

So now I have two things to do. 1)Check the value of my car for myself. 2) Locate what it would cost to replace my exact car in the market today.

For the first item I will use these three websites and take the best results to use as a basis for determining what I will expect to get paid from my Insurance Agency. www.kbb.com, www.edmunds.com, and www.nada.com. Be sure to include your milage and all your vehicle features before caculating a price with these sites. Also, always use the RETAIL price that they generate because that is what you will have to pay to replace your car in the open market.

The second item takes a little more leg work. But thankfully for the internet this process is now a lot easier. Use the website www.autotrader.com. This will allow you to locate your specific car to see what people are actually selling it for. Most often is will be selling for more money than what your first step revealed.

Note: If you are having trouble locating a vehicle within 200 miles of where you live, then try and find a similar replacement vehicle you are interested and use that as your leverage.

I have been told that by law, your insurance company is only require to pay out the wholesale price of the vehicle. This is usually at least half of what the blue book value is. So don't get your insurance company mad at you, but also stick to your guns when trying to get more money to replace or fix your vehicle!

List of the cheapest automotive insurance

Cheapest Cars to Insure
The top ten cheapest cars to insure, regardless of who you are :




















# Buick LeSabre
# Oldsmobile Silhouette
# Honda Odyssey
# Buick Park Avenue
# Pontiac Montana
# Mercury Grand Marquis
# Buick Century
# Chevrolet Venture
# GMC Safari
# Oldsmobile Bravada

The insurers go by credit scoring, loss avergaes, etc. not just by the car you drive, of course.

Answer :
For liability only, it depends mostly on the driver an possibly a little bit on how much damage the car will do. (motorcycles cheap, SUV's expensive)

For full coverage it is a combination of how much it usually cost to repair it and how likely it will be to get in an at fault accident.

cadilacs are expensive to repair, fords are inexpensive

volvos are driven responsibly, mustangs are always getting to wrecks.

The cheapest to insure will be a sensible, afordable, small sedan with the most safety features and the cheapest engine, trim, features etc..

hope it helps

List of the cheapest automotive insurance

Cheapest Cars to Insure
The top ten cheapest cars to insure, regardless of who you are :




















# Buick LeSabre
# Oldsmobile Silhouette
# Honda Odyssey
# Buick Park Avenue
# Pontiac Montana
# Mercury Grand Marquis
# Buick Century
# Chevrolet Venture
# GMC Safari
# Oldsmobile Bravada

The insurers go by credit scoring, loss avergaes, etc. not just by the car you drive, of course.

Answer :
For liability only, it depends mostly on the driver an possibly a little bit on how much damage the car will do. (motorcycles cheap, SUV's expensive)

For full coverage it is a combination of how much it usually cost to repair it and how likely it will be to get in an at fault accident.

cadilacs are expensive to repair, fords are inexpensive

volvos are driven responsibly, mustangs are always getting to wrecks.

The cheapest to insure will be a sensible, afordable, small sedan with the most safety features and the cheapest engine, trim, features etc..

hope it helps

List of the cheapest automotive insurance

Cheapest Cars to Insure
The top ten cheapest cars to insure, regardless of who you are :




















# Buick LeSabre
# Oldsmobile Silhouette
# Honda Odyssey
# Buick Park Avenue
# Pontiac Montana
# Mercury Grand Marquis
# Buick Century
# Chevrolet Venture
# GMC Safari
# Oldsmobile Bravada

The insurers go by credit scoring, loss avergaes, etc. not just by the car you drive, of course.

Answer :
For liability only, it depends mostly on the driver an possibly a little bit on how much damage the car will do. (motorcycles cheap, SUV's expensive)

For full coverage it is a combination of how much it usually cost to repair it and how likely it will be to get in an at fault accident.

cadilacs are expensive to repair, fords are inexpensive

volvos are driven responsibly, mustangs are always getting to wrecks.

The cheapest to insure will be a sensible, afordable, small sedan with the most safety features and the cheapest engine, trim, features etc..

hope it helps

Nissan Latio @ Tiida review

What's the New?
Unlike many other new cars that usually replace an existing model, the Latio is a new name to Nissan. While we are told that it is not a direct replacement to the long-serving Sunny (a new model is planned) the Latio, which is meant to sit just below the well-known sedan, comfortably fills its shoes for now.

Aside from being similar in size to the current Sunny or Sentra, it has a list of standard features that would embarrass many more expensive self-proclaimed luxury cars. Take its intelligent key system for example, like the Keyless Go system first seen on the more expensive Mercedes-Benz models, Nissan's equivalent works in much the same way, letting the driver lock and unlock the doors or even start the engine without needing to fish the key from a pocket or handbag.

This keyless system works beautifully and is thoroughly idiot proof. We tried to 'fool' system by trying to lock the car with the key still in it. But in every one of our 'scenarios' the Latio kept its windscreen intact by refusing to lock us out.

Other notable features on Nissan's compact family car include a 'Clean Ion' climate control air-conditioning system that apparently charges the cooled cabin air with negative ions which is supposed to be good for you.

All but the base model also get upholstery in a combination of leather and suede-like Alcantara which not only feels good but keeps its occupants from sliding in theirs seats if the driver gets too enthusiastic in his driving.

Although the Latio scores highly on the feature count, its exterior design leaves something to be desired. Opt for the hatchback variant, the Latio Sport however, and the car's proportions are much better resolved with a more contemporary stance. With the same features as the sedan, the Sport manages to offer more style, without forsaking any of its substance.

How It Performs
Animated by a 1.5-litre engine, the Latio is available with either a five-speed manual or Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT). With the latter, no one expects the Latio to be a sports car but in reality is deceptively spritely as its superb noise insulation and refinement does a good job of hiding its surprising pace.

Approach three-figure speeds and the Latio Sport turns in a much better composed ride than the sedan as it feels more stable in places where its sibling started to 'float'.


How It Stacks Up
By now you might be able to tell that we'd pick the Latio Sport over the sedan anytime. This choice is also made easier knowing that it more than makes up for the obvious deficit in boot space with a rear bench that slides fore and aft to offer more legroom or cargo space. For good measure the rear backrests also split and fold in a 60:40 ratio for longer loads.

With this versatility, generous appointment, decent styling - and significantly - keen pricing, it's easy to see why we're tempted to call this small car the

Nissan Latio @ Tiida review

What's the New?
Unlike many other new cars that usually replace an existing model, the Latio is a new name to Nissan. While we are told that it is not a direct replacement to the long-serving Sunny (a new model is planned) the Latio, which is meant to sit just below the well-known sedan, comfortably fills its shoes for now.

Aside from being similar in size to the current Sunny or Sentra, it has a list of standard features that would embarrass many more expensive self-proclaimed luxury cars. Take its intelligent key system for example, like the Keyless Go system first seen on the more expensive Mercedes-Benz models, Nissan's equivalent works in much the same way, letting the driver lock and unlock the doors or even start the engine without needing to fish the key from a pocket or handbag.

This keyless system works beautifully and is thoroughly idiot proof. We tried to 'fool' system by trying to lock the car with the key still in it. But in every one of our 'scenarios' the Latio kept its windscreen intact by refusing to lock us out.

Other notable features on Nissan's compact family car include a 'Clean Ion' climate control air-conditioning system that apparently charges the cooled cabin air with negative ions which is supposed to be good for you.

All but the base model also get upholstery in a combination of leather and suede-like Alcantara which not only feels good but keeps its occupants from sliding in theirs seats if the driver gets too enthusiastic in his driving.

Although the Latio scores highly on the feature count, its exterior design leaves something to be desired. Opt for the hatchback variant, the Latio Sport however, and the car's proportions are much better resolved with a more contemporary stance. With the same features as the sedan, the Sport manages to offer more style, without forsaking any of its substance.

How It Performs
Animated by a 1.5-litre engine, the Latio is available with either a five-speed manual or Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT). With the latter, no one expects the Latio to be a sports car but in reality is deceptively spritely as its superb noise insulation and refinement does a good job of hiding its surprising pace.

Approach three-figure speeds and the Latio Sport turns in a much better composed ride than the sedan as it feels more stable in places where its sibling started to 'float'.


How It Stacks Up
By now you might be able to tell that we'd pick the Latio Sport over the sedan anytime. This choice is also made easier knowing that it more than makes up for the obvious deficit in boot space with a rear bench that slides fore and aft to offer more legroom or cargo space. For good measure the rear backrests also split and fold in a 60:40 ratio for longer loads.

With this versatility, generous appointment, decent styling - and significantly - keen pricing, it's easy to see why we're tempted to call this small car the

Nissan Latio @ Tiida review

What's the New?
Unlike many other new cars that usually replace an existing model, the Latio is a new name to Nissan. While we are told that it is not a direct replacement to the long-serving Sunny (a new model is planned) the Latio, which is meant to sit just below the well-known sedan, comfortably fills its shoes for now.

Aside from being similar in size to the current Sunny or Sentra, it has a list of standard features that would embarrass many more expensive self-proclaimed luxury cars. Take its intelligent key system for example, like the Keyless Go system first seen on the more expensive Mercedes-Benz models, Nissan's equivalent works in much the same way, letting the driver lock and unlock the doors or even start the engine without needing to fish the key from a pocket or handbag.

This keyless system works beautifully and is thoroughly idiot proof. We tried to 'fool' system by trying to lock the car with the key still in it. But in every one of our 'scenarios' the Latio kept its windscreen intact by refusing to lock us out.

Other notable features on Nissan's compact family car include a 'Clean Ion' climate control air-conditioning system that apparently charges the cooled cabin air with negative ions which is supposed to be good for you.

All but the base model also get upholstery in a combination of leather and suede-like Alcantara which not only feels good but keeps its occupants from sliding in theirs seats if the driver gets too enthusiastic in his driving.

Although the Latio scores highly on the feature count, its exterior design leaves something to be desired. Opt for the hatchback variant, the Latio Sport however, and the car's proportions are much better resolved with a more contemporary stance. With the same features as the sedan, the Sport manages to offer more style, without forsaking any of its substance.

How It Performs
Animated by a 1.5-litre engine, the Latio is available with either a five-speed manual or Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT). With the latter, no one expects the Latio to be a sports car but in reality is deceptively spritely as its superb noise insulation and refinement does a good job of hiding its surprising pace.

Approach three-figure speeds and the Latio Sport turns in a much better composed ride than the sedan as it feels more stable in places where its sibling started to 'float'.


How It Stacks Up
By now you might be able to tell that we'd pick the Latio Sport over the sedan anytime. This choice is also made easier knowing that it more than makes up for the obvious deficit in boot space with a rear bench that slides fore and aft to offer more legroom or cargo space. For good measure the rear backrests also split and fold in a 60:40 ratio for longer loads.

With this versatility, generous appointment, decent styling - and significantly - keen pricing, it's easy to see why we're tempted to call this small car the